Not Your Nana’s Needlepoint

America’s favorite pastime might be baseball, but its most intricate is needlepoint. The needlework craft has been passed down for hundreds of years and has been woven into decor for centuries. This ancient craft, once a symbol of meticulous patience and skill, is now experiencing a dynamic transformation. Both factories and individual artisans are championing this trend, infusing needlepoint with a bold, fashion-forward flair that reinvigorates its presence in contemporary culture.

Whether hanging as a tapestry or on the floor as a rug, needlepoint has long been focal to decor. Its allure is heightened by its admirers, from famous designers such as Mario Buatta to first ladies like Barbara Bush—it’s even rumored that Taylor Swift has entered her needlepoint era. As needlepoint continues to evolve, it has recently reclaimed its spotlight in the world of crafts and design. This resurgence underscores a broader trend of returning to handmade, artisanal products in an increasingly digital world. It reflects a desire for tangible, authentic experiences and a connection to the past through the meticulous art of needlepoint.

Today, a new generation of stitchers is emerging. From planning vacations around visiting particular stores to listening to needlepoint podcasts, the resurgence is strong. Nana’s needlepoint isn’t what it used to be.

A STITCH IN TIME

Needlepoint purse by Lycette Designs

Needlepoint has a storied past that spans millennia with the origins of needlepoint being traced back to ancient civilizations. The earliest known examples date to around 1500 BC in ancient Egypt, where the tent stitch—a single diagonal stitch—was employed for practical purposes such as sewing clothing and tents. This utilitarian beginning laid the groundwork for needlepoint’s evolution into an art form.

By the time of the Renaissance in the 16th century, needlepoint had become a decorative pursuit in Europe. During this period, needlepoint was often referred to as “canvas work.” Wealthy households and royal courts embraced adorning their spaces with elaborate tapestries and intricate household items. These needlepoint pieces featured complex patterns and vibrant colors, showcasing the skill and creativity of the artisans. The technique was particularly popular in England and France, where it became a symbol of sophistication and taste.

As needlepoint continued to flourish in the 18th and 19th centuries, it became increasingly accessible to the general public. Boutiques stocked with needlepoint supplies became common, catering to a growing community of enthusiasts. These shops, known as brocantes in France, paved the way for today’s local needlepoint stores, affectionately referred to as “LNSes.” Patterns and kits became widely available, making it easier for people to engage in the craft.

LOCAL NEEDLEPOINT STORIES

Krista Leray, Founder of Penny Linn

Betty Dankowski, lovingly known as “Miss B” to the needlepoint community, manages Lycette Newport. The quaint shop on Newport’s William Street is the second outpost of the Palm Beach-based boutique of the same name owned by Jessica Chaney. Chaney is often credited with popularizing the most recent wave of needlepointers, many of whom were introduced to the craft in 2020. While Chaney manages the store in Florida, Dankowski is responsible for keeping things in order in Rhode Island.

Like many hobbyists, Dankowski, who was raised in East Hampton, says she grew up in a house surrounded by needlepoint. “My mom always needlepointed; I can remember going to the needlepoint store with her to choose a canvas and threads and just sitting at night watching her needlepoint,” she reminisces. It wasn’t until Dankowski was older that she decided to give it a try for herself, “For the first time in my professional life, I was without a job, and I had excess energy I had to dispose of. I found one of Lycette’s canvases, and I sat down with my mom, so she could teach me how to stitch. That was seven years ago, and the rest is history.”

“If you are interested in needlepoint, there are probably five other things that you’re going to connect with people about—whether it’s books, fashion or antiquing—we probably have one of those interests in common besides needlepoint,” Dankowski says with a laugh. And she’s right. Needlepoint has the power to connect grandmothers to granddaughters, millennials to boomers, husbands and wives and brands to consumers.

A lifelong lover of handcrafted art, Barbara Anderson was introduced to needlework at an early age by her Swedish grandmother. Thus began a lifelong fascination with color, texture and fiber for the St. Simons Island native, and a career that has spanned over five decades. Barbara opened her first needlepoint shop shortly after college, serving residents and visitors of Georgia’s Golden Isles. “Back then,” she said, “It was amazing all the new threads and materials becoming available to hand stitchers. To this day, I still make use of all the techniques I learned during that time.”

In the mid-1990s, Barbara decided to start her own line of handpainted needlepoint canvases, and the Stitchery of St. Simons Island has been a must-see destination for needlepointers, knitters and crocheters across the Southeast ever since. Barbara’s wealth of technical and historical stitching knowledge has earned her a reputation as an authority on the craft. Frequently, visitors will schedule portions of their vacations around her boutique’s hours, so that they can benefit from her expertise and stock up on quality supplies. Though needlepoint was her first passion, Barbara has also developed a love for other crafts. She now hand-dyes sumptuous skeins of fine merino, silk and mohair yarns sold under the label called Island Dyeworks. “I am always trying to push the limits of my creativity. In this medium, there’s always something new to learn,” Barbara insists, “You’re never really done learning.”

A BUSINESS BOOM

Colorful threads at the Stitchery of St. Simons Island.

In recent years, the digital age has enabled a new wave of enthusiasts to connect and share their work through social media platforms and online communities. This has led to a vibrant and diverse needlepoint scene, where traditional techniques are blended with contemporary designs. Modern needlepoint artists push the boundaries of the craft, creating pieces that reflect current trends and personal expressions.

Luxury fashion houses have spearheaded the trend. In 2010, quite ahead of the latest resurgence, Fendi launched a do-it-yourself needlepoint kit of its famous baguette bag. The $995 project came as a kit, complete with thread and the iconic gold Fendi clasp. Today, auction houses and popular shopping websites list the bag for thousands. Stubbs & Wootton premiered their iconic needlepoint slipper 30 years ago, and today they have an exclusive partnership with Lycette to produce bespoke, hand-stitched shoes. In her 2022 collection, Tory Burch showcased needlepoint accessories featuring bird motifs. Furbish Studio, a swanky internet-based home decor store, carries a cheeky line of pillows with quirky patterns and sayings, like “my ducks are absolutely not in a row” and “more wine, less whine.”

While many point to the pandemic as the reason needlepoint came back with a vengeance, others believe it’s a desire for more tangible experiences that offer satisfaction beyond what screens can provide. “There’s only so much [online] that you can intake. We want to pick something up with our hands. Needlepoint touches on the artistic side that as adults we don’t often have. In school, we had art class. As adults, it’s hard to find that creative outlet. I think needlepoint allows us to be creative,” Dankowski says.

Social media has become the vessel that helps spread the word. Krista LeRay, the needlepoint designer, retail shop owner and visionary behind Penny Linn Designs, has over 222K social media followers who tune in to see her tips, tricks, ideas and inventory. Dallas stitcher Alli Eagan, known online as Francophile Dallas, has stitched nearly 250 pieces, which she eagerly shares on Instagram. Atlanta stitcher Jessica Rothbeind of Stitching in the City was introduced to needlepoint by her mother and grandmother as a child. Today, Jessica stitches bold, brightly colored canvases that bring joy and practicality to her life. “I look for pieces that can become heirlooms and are functional, not just dust collectors,” she says. These heirlooms, lovingly chosen and stitched by hand, become heartfelt decor and keepsakes.

Needlepoint’s resurgence transcends mere nostalgia. It’s a cultural touchstone, weaving together a desire for handcrafted objects, artistic expression and human connection. In an digital age, needlepoint offers a tactile, mindful experience that fosters a vibrant community across generations. From grandmothers passing down traditions to celebrities embracing the craft, needlepoint is more than just intricate stitches on canvas; it’s a thread that binds us to the past while ensuring a colorful future.

Assorted accessories from Smathers & Branson